Suspension, Drivetrain & Brakes
Get the power down. Stop harder. Turn sharper.
Upgrading power means nothing if it doesn’t reach the ground, stop in time, or hold a line. Here’s how to approach suspension, drivetrain, and braking for the MX-5 NC and similar platforms.
1) Differentials
Fuji / Tochigi Fuji LSD (OEM NC)
- Good baseline LSD, clutch-type design.
- Prone to wear — can be rebuilt with stronger springs & plates.
- Great for street/track mix up to ~300 hp.
Aftermarket options
- Kaaz, Cusco, OS Giken for aggressive track or drift use.
- Torsen/Quaife ATB = smooth, maintenance-free, but less lock under wheel lift.
Tip: Match diff setup to tire choice and use case — street tires need less lock than slicks.
2) Clutch & flywheel
Street / Stage 1
- OEM or mild upgrade handles NA + mild cams (~220 hp).
- Lightened flywheel (4–5 kg) improves throttle response.
Turbo / Stage 2+
- Organic/segmented clutch disc, stronger pressure plate.
- For 300–400 hp turbo: twin-disc or heavy-duty single-plate.
- Consider uprated slave cylinder & braided line for feel.
Rule: Size clutch for torque, not hp. Overbuild slightly to avoid early wear.
3) Brake upgrades
Stage 1 — Fast road
- Quality pads (Ferodo DS2500, EBC Yellowstuff).
- Braided lines + fresh DOT 4 fluid.
- Slotted discs optional, OEM size fine.
Stage 2 — Track days
- High-temp pads (DS3000/CL RC6).
- 2-piece discs (lighter, cooler).
- High-temp DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid.
Pro tip: Tire grip dictates brake needs. Don’t overspend on big brakes if tires can’t use them.
4) Suspension setup
Street comfort
- Quality coilovers (Ohlins, KW V3, Tein Flex-Z).
- Mild drop (~25–30 mm) for stance & roll control.
- Alignment: -1° to -1.5° camber front, -1.5° rear.
Track / Time Attack
- Stiffer coilovers with digressive valving.
- Adjustable arms for camber/caster control.
- Alignment: -2.5°+ front camber, -2°+ rear, slight toe-out front.
Corner-weighting makes the biggest difference once spring rates go up. Balance > brand.
5) Common issues
Wheel hop under boost
- Worn bushings → upgrade to poly or spherical in rear arms.
- Diff mounts too soft → insert or stiffer mounts.
Brake fade
- Fluid boiling → flush with DOT 4/5.1 high-temp.
- Pads overheated → upgrade compound.
Uneven tire wear
- Excessive toe or camber imbalance.
- Check alignment + bushings before blaming tires.
6) FAQ
Is the stock NC diff strong?
Yes, up to ~300 hp with good condition plates. For more torque or track abuse, rebuild or upgrade LSD.
What’s the best clutch for street turbo NC?
A heavy-duty organic single plate balances drivability and torque rating. Twin-disc is track-only comfort-wise.
Do I need big brakes?
Not always. Good pads + fluid + braided lines transform OEM brakes. Big brake kits shine with slicks and heavy track use.
Unsure what chassis mods you need? Tell us your power goals and use case — we’ll spec a drivetrain & suspension combo that works.
Ask Yiannis